Rare Patek Philippe, Cartier and Rolex Watches Head to Heritage’s November Timepieces Auction

A discontinued Patek Philippe Calatrava, a rare Cartier Bamboo Coussin and a gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona are among the standout watches heading to Heritage Auctions’ November 20 Watches & Fine Timepieces Signature Auction. Leading the lineup is a Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts Ref. 5088/100P-001, a platinum watch with an engraved 18-karat white gold dial. The 38mm dial features an intricate handcrafted pattern of vines beneath Dauphine hands, while the watch’s ultra-thin self-winding movement can be seen through its transparent sapphire case back.

“This is an elegant marriage of artistry and precision from one of the world’s elite watchmakers,” says Jim Wolf, Heritage Auctions’ Director of Watches & Fine Timepieces. “The combination of artistic precision and mechanical ingenuity make this a coveted prize among the most serious of collectors.”

Another unusual piece in the sale is a Cartier Bamboo Coussin Ref. 78102 in 18-karat yellow gold. Cartier produced the Bamboo Coussin in two sizes, with Ref. 78110 made as the ladies’ version and Ref. 78102 as the corresponding men’s watch. Heritage notes the scarcity of the larger reference, citing suggestions that as few as 250 examples may have been produced. The watch also has several distinctive dial details, including a vintage-style “CARTIER” signature below 12 o’clock and “PARIS” in capital letters beneath the 6.

Patek Philippe collectors will find several other major pieces in the auction. A Ref. 5168G Aquanaut features a 42mm embossed midnight blue dial inside an 18-karat white gold case. The watch is being offered as a full set with its box, manual booklet and certificate of origin. Its white gold hands and applied Arabic numerals use luminous material for improved visibility.

Heritage is also offering a rare Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 “Amagnetic” stainless steel wristwatch. The example has what Heritage describes as an elusive script signature and an original Type 2 dial with baton indexes, minute lines, a numeral at 12, subsidiary seconds and white gold baton hands. The Ref. 3417 comes with a period Patek Philippe box and represents an era when watchmakers were experimenting with watches designed to resist magnetic fields.

A very different aesthetic comes from the De Bethune DB28XP US Limited Edition. The 43mm watch uses an ultra-thin titanium monolock case surrounding an open-worked “microlite rose” dial with skeletonized delta-shaped hands. Heritage Auctions describes the design as having a futuristic appearance and notes that the watch comes as a full set with its box, Certificate of Origin and warranty.

Rolex is represented by a circa-1985 Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona in 18-karat gold. The Daytona is being offered with an unusually complete group of original accessories, including Attestation de Chronometre/Garantie punched papers with a Soto Largo Madrid sticker showing a June 20, 1985 sale date, Cosmograph booklets, its original leather and suede box and an additional Rolex alligator strap with an 18-karat gold large-crown buckle. Heritage describes the Ref. 6263 as one of Rolex’s most desirable chronographs and notes that examples retaining their original accessories are rarely encountered.

Collectors interested in pocket watches will also find several highly complicated examples. A circa-1895 Louis Audemars gold Grand Complicated pocket watch combines a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and moon phase display, along with a four-year calendar.

Another major pocket watch is a circa-1900 Patek Philippe minute repeater housed in a substantial 52mm 18-karat rose gold case. The watch has a white enamel dial with Arabic numerals and gold Louis XV hands and is accompanied by its original certificate of origin and full box.

Heritage’s Watches & Fine Timepieces Signature Auction takes place November 20, with the complete catalog available through the auction house.